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Ball python
Snakes do not respond to their owners like dogs and cats do, and generally prefer to be left alone. Ball pythons are exceptionally shy. Because they are small and docile, they may appear to be good beginner snake, however the new ball python owner must be prepared to deal with potential feeding problems, parasites and secondary health problems. The beginner should acquire only young captive-bred specimens or imported specimens that are proven eaters. A frightened snake may lash with its tail, hiss, or in rare cases, bite. |
Housing recommendations Housing should be an escape-proof enclosure that is the appropriate size for the snake. The best type of enclosure is one specifically designed for housing snakes, which includes a fixed screen/hinged glass top. A dark, secure hiding box inside the enclosure is mandatory for a sense of security. Housing sizes
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Temperature Proper temperature is even more important than the physical enclosure in maintaining a healthy snake. Room temperature is not adequate for the digestive process and health of the snake. Heating may be provided by special reptile heating pads or incandescent light bulbs in reflector hood, placed to avoid direct contact with the snake |
Most common disorders of Ball pythons:
Ball pythons can flourish as long-lived pets when attention is given to certain aspects of husbandry, including temperature and humidity. Regular visits with your exotic animal veterinarian should be scheduled to check for parasites and other early signs of disease and to promote a satisfying relationship with your pet. |
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Humidity Proper levels help ensure successful sheds for your snake. Although the idea; humidity of the enclosure should be between 60 - 80% , this is difficult to maintain in a dry climate. An alternative is to provide a shedding box (eg, Tupperware container with the two opposite corners cut out for entry ands exit. Sphagnum moss placed in the box maintains an agreeably moist environment.
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| The ball python
(Python regius), or royal python, is a small, attractive and gentle
snake native to western and west-central Africa. These nocturnal pythons
prefer mixed grassland and trees (savannah) as their habitat. During
daylight hours they hide underground in rodent burrow. In captivity,
this behavior is interpreted as secretive. When they are frightened they
coil up into a ball- thus , the name "ball python". Free - ranging ball python are considered a threatened species, resulting from habitat destruction and collection for the pet trade, skin trade, and as food item. Permits are required for their exportation from Africa. Ball pythons can be relatively expensive pets to maintain because of their requirements for large enclosure, special heating elements to regulate temperature, and live prey items for food. |
Gender Ball pythons are difficult to sex. Usually the males have thicker tails, and the anal spurs are more curved. A reptile veterinarian can use a probe to determine your snake's sex.
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Diet Ball pythons are fed at night. A prey item appropriate to the size of the snake should be fed at each meal. Ball pythons are constrictors: that is, they coil around their prey and suffocate it. Only stunned or prekilled prey should be offered to avoid injury to the snake. Gerbils are the initial prey of choice, although dark-colored mice or hamsters might work as prey items in a reluctant eater. Some snakes do not recognize red eyed mice as food item. Rubbing mice with a gerbil can impart the scent of the gerbil to the mouse and aid in converting the snake to a mouse diet. As your snake get larger, small rats are ideal. Feeding Guidelines
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Vital statistics Body Length (adults): 36-48 inches Body weight: varies with length / age Age of sexual maturity: 3-5 years Maximum life span: 50 years Average captive life span:20-30 years |
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Housing for your ball python should:
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Important for ball pythons to avoid:
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